Buccaneers from across Europe (especially England) – as well as Berber pirates from nearby Africa – regularly plundered ships using this once vital trade route. It is even thought that Robert Louis Stevenson´s classic novel Treasure Island was based on just such an incident on Graciosa, the small neighbouring island just north of Lanzarote which is overlooked by the Mirador del Rio.
Itself, a former cannon emplacement that once guarded Lanzarote´s waterways.
Either way, these pirate raids necessitated the creation of a series of castles, which provided both early warning of impending incursions and sanctuary from these marauders.
Four of these castillos are still standing today – each providing a fascinating link back in time to Lanzarote´s piratical past.
CASTILLO DE SAN GABRIEL
Archaeology Museum, Arrecife
The Castillo de San Gabriel is one of two castles guarding the shoreline in Lanzarote´s capital Arrecife. Located on a small outcrop called the Islote de los Ingleses (now found at the bottom end of the busy shopping street Calle Leon y Castillo) the original fortress was entirely constructed of wood in the early 1500´s.
But this material did little to repel raiders and after it was burnt to the ground by Algerian pirates in the 1570´s it was entirely rebuilt in stone in 1592.
Making it one of the oldest and most important historical buildings on Lanzarote.
Today, the honey-coloured stone of the castle houses a small and recently renovated archaeological museum – which explores the life of the pre-Spanish island inhabitants, The Guanche. With exhibits including pottery, coins, fossils and primitive jewellery.
CASTILLO DE SANTA BARBARA
Emigration Museum, Teguise
The impressive Castillo de Santa Barbara is perched high above Teguise on the extinct volcano Mount Guanapay. And for years this spot has served as the main look out point for the oldest settlement in the Canary Islands – which was also Lanzarote´s capital city until 1852.
© Photo: James Mitchell :: Castillo de Santa Bababra pearched above Teguise Market
Originally, the site comprised little more than a wooden watchtower. But as pirate raids intensified it was rebuilt as the current stone structure in 1586. Legend has it that a secret tunnel runs all the way from the castle down into the centre of Teguise – enabling locals to hide themselves away at the first sign of a warning signal from the Castillo.
Like most of the island´s historical buildings Santa Barbara fell into a state of disrepair during the 20th century. But in 1989 the Castillo enjoyed an extensive renovation and is now home to an excellent museum – the Museo del Emigrante – which chronicles the patterns of emigration from the island over the last three centuries.
Drought, famine and volcanic eruption forced many islanders to set sail for other shores – particularly the Americas – where many settled in locations such as Texas, Cuba, Mexico, Venezeula and Colombia.
The museum tells the story of this hardship and heartbreak, exhibiting all sorts of artifacts such as boarding cards, passports, maps, alongside a whole raft of possessions, such as luggage, typewriters, sewing machines and clothing.
If the museum isn’t sufficiently engaging just head for the battlements on the roof – where you can enjoy an incredible panoramic view down to two coastlines.
CASTILLO DE SAN JOSE
Modern Art Museum & Restaurant, Arrecife
The Castillo de San Jose is situated in Arrecife’s port (Puerto Naos) and was built in 1776. Besides defending the port against pirates, it served to provide work and money for the Lanzaroteños, who had been suffering from starvation following the volcanic eruptions that destroyed a lot of farmland in the 1730´s.
As a result it became known locally as The Fortress of Hunger. For many years it acted as a powder and ammunition store, but by the 20th century had become derelict.
Cesar Manrique undertook its restoration and conversion into a modern art museum and restaurant, which opened its doors in 1976. The contrast of the contemporary artworks against the traditional stonewalls is dramatic.
The entire collection was donated by prestigious artist friends of Manrique, including Picasso, Miro and Riviera (who would all swap one of their paintings for one of his!).
On the lower level is a gallery space for temporary exhibitions. A spiral staircase leads you to a great restaurant (designed by Manrique with dramatic black furnishings) – and a drink at the stylish bar is also highly recommended!
CASTILLO DE LAS COLORADAS
Playa Blanca
As the newest resort on the island, Playa Blanca is obviously not blessed with much in the way of historic buildings or sites.
The one exception of the Castillo de las Coloradas – which sits outside the resort, to the east, as you walk towards the beaches at Papagayo
The current construction dates from 1769. But there has been a fortress on this spot ever since the arrival of the Norman noble Jean de Bethencourt. Who built a castle here to help defend the original Guanche inhabitants – and the island – from pirate attacks.
The castle itself is named after the colourful – coloradas in Spanish – rocks that are found along the coastline.
