View to La GraciosaTreasure Island – the great children’s book written by Robert Louis Stevenson, is said to be based on an incident that took place in the 1760s on La Graciosa, the tiny island that lies just off the north coast of Lanzarote.

Photo by JM : View from Las Rositas, looking over towards the town of Caleta de Sebo on the island of La Graciosa

During the 18th Century, many ships and trading vessels bound for the West Indies would pass through the Rio Straits, which run between Lanzarote and Graciosa. On one occasion, a British ship dropped anchor there, laden with spoils from a battle at sea.

Buried Treasure

Not realising that a pirate galleon had trailed them, the sailors managed to reach land and bury their treasure before the buccaneers stormed ashore. However, the British crew was hopelessly outnumbered. They were soon captured and tortured by the pirates in order to force them to reveal the whereabouts of their hoard. But they stayed tight lipped and died without revealing their secret.

Unbeknown to the pirates though a cabin boy managed to escape, making his way over to Lanzarote, from where he managed to board a ship to England. He only revealed the secret location of the buried treasure on his deathbed.

Long John Silver

In Robert Louis Stevenson’s classic tale, the central character is a cook, namely the infamous Long John Silver, who lost one of his legs whilst serving on a ship commanded by an Admiral Hawke.

Historians have since uncovered an actual naval engagement, which took place just off Lanzarote in the 1760s. With a real life Admiral Hawke prominently involved in the encounter.

Under Admiral Hawke´s command, two galleons regularly patrolled the sea-lanes between the Canaries and the Azores (which included the Rio Strait between Lanzarote and Graciosa). Once, whilst attempting to capture a Spanish vessel in Lanzarote’s port, they attacked Arrecife. As historians point out, the crew had obviously acquired first-hand knowledge of the area by then!

In Treasure Island, Long John Silver applies for a job on the Hispanola, and the narrator tells us ‘he was certainly no stranger to the island’.

This means that it’s not too far-fetched to connect the Long John Silver of this great work of fiction – who had served under an Admiral Hawke – with the real life sailors who, by 1762, had acquired knowledge of the Canary Islands, sailing with a commander of the same name.

The only burning questions remain – is the treasure still buried on Graciosa? Or, when the cabin boy finally revealed his secret, who set sail for Graciosa, to retrieve it?

Smallest Canary Island

Today, La Graciosa is the smallest inhabited island in the Canaries – home to a population of around just 600 people. And it´s real treasure is it’s intense peace and tranquility. As well as some outstandingly beautiful beaches, such as Playa de Las Conchas and Playa de La Cocina.

La Graciosa forms part of the Chinijo Archipelago. Which is a group of small islotes all visible in close proximity to La Graciosa. Encompassing Alegranza, Montana Clara, Roque del Este and Roque del Oeste. Throughout the 1950´s and 1960´s Alegranza alone was home to a tiny population of just 13 people – but now, like the other islotes, it is completely deserted.

Visiting La Graciosa

Lineas MartimasIt´s easy to visit La Graciosa either for a day trip or for a longer stay if desired. As there are a couple of pensiones on the island and ferries run from Lanzarote´s small northern port of Orzola.

The daily ferry service is operated by Lineas Maritimas Romero – who can be contacted on 0034 928 842 070.

Ferry Timetable

View ferry timetable.

Mirador Del Rio

If you don’t quite have the sea legs for the short crossing head instead for the Mirador del Rio. which provides the most breathtaking views of La Graciosa, along with the other islands in the Chinijo Archipelago.