San Bartolomé lies right in the heart of Lanzarote — both geographically and culturally. Formerly known as Ajei by the pre-Spanish Gaunche inhabitants the town started to grow during the 16th and 17th centuries. A coastal exodus occurred due to repeated pirate incursions, forcing many islanders to seek refuge further inland.
An Agricultural Past
Before tourism took off, the main economic activity here was agriculture. Evidence of this pastoral past is everywhere — as over centuries local farmers, working with very low rainfall, have ingeniously experimented with two novel forms of irrigation.
Just to the north of the town lie the famous wine fields of La Geria. Here black volcanic picon and stone semi-circles are still used as to release and retain overnight moisture and to protect young vines.
To the east of the town, on the road running to Tahiche, lies what at first sight appears to be virtual desert. But these fields benefit from damp soil and sand, known as jable, which is blown in from the coast by the prevailing north wind.
The additional moisture provided by these grains enables the local farmers to grow crops, such as sweet potato and watermelon, in abundance.
This resourcefulness was prominently celebrated by famous local artist and architect Cesar Manrique. Just outside San Bartolomé he created The Monumento al Campesino.
This giant 15 metre high sculpture of a farmer with his flock is made from water tanks salvaged from old fishing boats. It is designed to highlight the endurance and inventiveness of the local farm workers and the historic significance of agricultural life on the island.
The Museo al Campesino adjoins the Momumento. The Museo is an important cultural centre, dedicated to promoting local arts and crafts. Visitors can explore the restored period farmhouse and sample locally grown produce, such as wines from the adjoining fields in La Geria.
Places Worth Seeing
As one of seven municipal island capitals, San Bartolomé boasts some very interesting, historic buildings and museums.
Casa Ajei
Tucked away in the town itself there’s a thriving but less well-known cultural centre, Casa Ajei.
This beautifully restored old Canarian manor house plays host to a small agricultural museum as well as providing a base for local folk groups and artists.
Museo del Tanit
Visitors can even get a fascinating glimpse into the past lives of the townspeople of San Bartolomé by paying a visit to the Museo del Tanit.
This ethnographic museum is a collection of every day items from the last 200 odd years. So giving a unique insight into how people really used to live.
In fact it’s one of the places that local chidren visit with their schools.
Casa Mayor Guerra
Just outside the town to the west is the impressive Casa Mayor Guerra, the 18th century home of the former military Governor of Lanzarote.
The building is only really used occasionally for civic functions, so is not open to the public; which is a shame as it features a stunning underground restaurant.
The house is undergoing some major improvements to the grounds and it is likely that it will soon be open to the public on a more permanent basis.
A Lush, Green Oasis
The town’s prettily planted main square is adjoined by the century parish Church, dating from 1787, as well as the Teatro Municipal, which plays host to numerous cultural events such as art exhibitions and concerts.